2015.05.30 Saturday - Istanbul

I was up early to see the ship arrive in Istanbul. It was exciting to be arriving at our final destination, somewhere quite different to all the other ports - exciting! The city is shrouded in an early morning haze, but the immediate thing that is obvious .... minarets of mosques. Everywhere. We later find out that there are over 3000 mosques in Istanbul (population 20 million - almost the whole of Australia in one city!).



Disembarkation from the ship is straight forward, and the four of us head for the taxi rank, a porter bringing  our luggage. There seems to be a mass of disorganised yellow taxis, all parked haphazardly in an unmarked car par (not like the usual line of taxis at a taxi rank). Several drivers (we assume they're drivers) descend on our porter wanting to know where we're going. At first, it seems like disorganised chaos, but really turns out to be organised chaos - they're just trying to help us.

We hoped to get a large cab to take the four of us or two ordinary cabs if a bigger one was not available. We are shown to a cab, the four of us and all our luggage. We'll never fit in! It's one of the smaller model Fiats (as most taxis in Istanbul turn out to be because of the narrow, narrow streets). As our luggage is rammed into the boot, we stand back and watch the comedy of half a dozen drivers all taking turns to attempt to slam the boot lid shut on the bulging luggage, none of which attempt is successful. Then the suggestions start getting thrown about between the drivers, more unsuccessful attempts to close as we are ushered out of sight and into the cab ... S-Q-U-E-E-E-E-Z-E!! With us gone, out come the occy straps and the boot lid is tied down.

After a high speed, fun-park style ride through Istanbul traffic, with the driver continually looking away from the road to turn and talk to Greg sitting beside him, about Istanbul, we arrive at our hotel in the older city part of Istanbul. Looks like excellent accommodation with a fabulous location - and it was (apart from the squeaking polished floor boards, for Anne and Bob in their room underneath ours).

 Premist Hotel Istanbul

 Hotel entrance courtyard
 
And there was something else we couldn't have escaped no matter where we were - the Muslim call to prayers from the mosque next door (although ANYWHERE in Istanbul has a mosque next door!). I still can't get my head around why this event, several times a day - including extremely very early morning and late at night - needs to blaring out over sub-standard poor sound quality loud speakers attached to at least one minaret of EVERY mosque. But, such is the experience of the rich tapestry of life in Istanbul.

It is still only about 9am and only one of the rooms is ready. After a welcoming cup of tea we move our luggage into Anne and Bob's room. Val had researched that the Mehter, a Turkish military band (the oldest military band in the world) gave public concerts at the Istanbul Military Museum on Saturday afternoons, so we headed out for lunch and a visit there.

The hotel staff were extremely helpful with public transport advice and information. As usual Greg we managed to follow the instructions on the vending machine at the tram stop, and obtained Istanbul travel cards (for bus, train, tram) for us all. A wave of the cards across the entrance turnstiles at the tram stop and we were off across the Galata bridge. At Kabatas we changed from the tram to the subterranean funicular to Taksim Square.

There were lots of people there and hawkers and sellers of all kinds of food and stuff. The memorial in the centre of the square was very interesting but there was no sign to tell us what it was. We guessed a war memorial. Everyone else was posing in front of it so we did too. Later found out it was commemorating the formation of the Turkish Republic.

 Taksin Square


After lunch at a restaurant called Robert's Cafe, we headed up to the museum. The idea was to walk (which we did) but it turned out to be a very noisy walk.

Turkey has presidential elections next week. Campaigning is in full swing, but not as we know campaigning. It seem a massive part of the process is a display of support for the candidates.

Whilst the streets are festooned with the usual posters, billboards, banners etc for each of the various candidates, as we walked along the street we were caught up in numerous cavalcades of cars all decked out with flags and posters of the various candidates. Horns blaring - I think the rule is that the candidate whose supporters make the most noise, wins. Especially vans equipped with loud speakers blaring out speeches and music (supposedly songs written for/about the candidate).

What is it with Turkey and loud speakers?

Reaching the museum, we have a bit of luck each way - disappointment that the band had gone on an overseas tour and wouldn't be playing that afternoon, but  because we were over 60, it was free admittance.

There was a special exhibition of the Gallipoli Campaign - interesting to read the captions which were obviously written from the Turkish point of view. Some of the English translations of the text were a little strange. It was a huge museum with some fabulous displays tracing the history of the Ottoman Empire. Worth a visit but wish we could have heard the band.

By this time, the day had caught up with us. No walking back to Taksim Square, we jumped a bus (same travel card swipe) back to Taksim Square. 4pm on Saturday afternoon and the tram was very crowded. By the time we got to the Spice Bazaar I didn't think any people could get on, but they did! We certainly got up close and personal with some locals on day one.

Back at the Premist Hotel we picked up some traditional complimentary afternoon tea and put our feet up in our rooms for a couple of hours. From time to time we all commented on a rocking feeling, as though we were on the ship.

We decided to dine out at a restaurant strip just around the corner. There probably would have been 40-50 restaurants in the street and a few more up side streets. But what a gauntlet it was to run! Footpath spruikers and urgers are the way of life for each restaurant (except one -more about that later). Probably not what you'd call aggressive, but certainly persistent - if you say you don't want a meal, then "Maybe coffee?", "Maybe a beer?"

Tired and hungry, we had to make a decision so we settled into the Sultan's Pub. Luckily our order came quickly because there was a blackout at about 8pm. We were happy to leave and head back to the hotel and bed.