Greg and Val 2013 Western Front, France, England (blog and images) (reverse chrono order)
Greg and Val 2013 Western Front, France, England (images collection)
Greg and Val, Anne and Bob 2014 Canada and Alaska (blog and pictures) (reverse chrono order)
Greg and Val, Anne and Bob Canada and Alaska (and Seattle) (images collection)
2015.05.31 Sunday - Istanbul
Anne had booked a private walking tour for us so at 9am we were waiting in the hotel garden for our guide. Sevillay introduced herself and a driver (who, as it turned out) and we were off. Our first stop, Topkapi Palace, the home of the Ottamon sultans was so close we walked. What a place! It was just beautiful. The rose gardens, the sumptuous rooms, the Mosque, the views across the Bosphorus. Those beautiful blue Turkish tiles were everywhere. I think this was my favourite place.
Sevillay showed us around and then gave us half an hour free time to explore further for ourselves. The queue for the Treasures Museum was long so we opted for the Sacred Relics Pavillion. A cooking pot said to have belonged to Abraham; the turban of Joseph; the sword of David; the cloak of the Prophet Mohammed; the footprint of Mohammed. An amazing array of items and artifacts.
Next stop Aya Sofia Museum, built in 537 as a Greek Orthodox Bascilica. It also served as a Roman Catholic Cathedral for a time before becoming a Mosque in 1453. Instead of destroying it they just covered up the religious images, including those painted inside the huge dome, tweaked the position of the altar so it faced Mecca and there you have it, a Mosque. It has been a Museum since 1931 and many of the original religious paintings have been restored.
The underground Basilica Cistern built in the 6th century was amazing. So far ahead of its time and still standing. We were all surprised at the size of the fish down there (those big turkeys as Bob called them).
Lunch was included in the tour - a nice restaurant with white table cloths. At first we were the only ones there but later another tour guide with a small group. Everywhere we went we ran into other Seabourn passengers, interestingly most were also taking private tours - could call Anne!
The Blue Mosque - Sultanahmet Cami - was next. It's great having a guide and skipping the queues (well almost all of them). Outside we saw the men and boys washing in the ablutions area beside the Mosque. Greg and Bob had been warned to wear long pants and Anne and I had scarves ready to cover our heads. We filed past a counter and anyone who was not sufficiently covered was given a blue cloth to wear.
We all had to remove our shoes and carried them in a plastic bag I had brought but there were bags there for those who needed them. Inside part of the Mosque was roped off as a service was taking place. It didn't seem right to be wandering around taking photos at this time but there were lots of men coming and going from the roped off area so it all seemed quite casual. We saw two little boys dressed in white sultan costumes with their father who seemed to be teaching them what to do. Our guide said the costumes indicated they were going to be circumcised.
We then walked around the Hippodrome, built originally for chariot races and then used for other sporting and social events. Particularly popular at weekends with families visiting the sites around it, enjoying with gardens and statues and ice cream sellers etc.
Anne needed an extra bag for all the goodies she had bought so as we walked through the backstreets and markets we checked out what was available. She found just what she needed in the Arasta Bazaar. By this time our tour was nearly over - six hours of walking. Bob suggested that we were close enough to walk back to our hotel but our guide insisted we go by bus. We found out later, while on another exploratory walk, that it took us longer to walk back to the bus then it would have to walk straight to our hotel.
Back at the hotel it was time to put our feet up before dinner. Greg and I popped into a nearby grocery shop to pick up some supplies to take on the Gallipoli trip. Anne and I were happy with soup for dinner - enjoying the traditional lentil soup that is served at most places.
With the Bosphorus Strait behind us, looking east towards Asian Turkey
Sevillay showed us around and then gave us half an hour free time to explore further for ourselves. The queue for the Treasures Museum was long so we opted for the Sacred Relics Pavillion. A cooking pot said to have belonged to Abraham; the turban of Joseph; the sword of David; the cloak of the Prophet Mohammed; the footprint of Mohammed. An amazing array of items and artifacts.
Next stop Aya Sofia Museum, built in 537 as a Greek Orthodox Bascilica. It also served as a Roman Catholic Cathedral for a time before becoming a Mosque in 1453. Instead of destroying it they just covered up the religious images, including those painted inside the huge dome, tweaked the position of the altar so it faced Mecca and there you have it, a Mosque. It has been a Museum since 1931 and many of the original religious paintings have been restored.
The underground Basilica Cistern built in the 6th century was amazing. So far ahead of its time and still standing. We were all surprised at the size of the fish down there (those big turkeys as Bob called them).
Lunch was included in the tour - a nice restaurant with white table cloths. At first we were the only ones there but later another tour guide with a small group. Everywhere we went we ran into other Seabourn passengers, interestingly most were also taking private tours - could call Anne!
The Blue Mosque - Sultanahmet Cami - was next. It's great having a guide and skipping the queues (well almost all of them). Outside we saw the men and boys washing in the ablutions area beside the Mosque. Greg and Bob had been warned to wear long pants and Anne and I had scarves ready to cover our heads. We filed past a counter and anyone who was not sufficiently covered was given a blue cloth to wear.
We all had to remove our shoes and carried them in a plastic bag I had brought but there were bags there for those who needed them. Inside part of the Mosque was roped off as a service was taking place. It didn't seem right to be wandering around taking photos at this time but there were lots of men coming and going from the roped off area so it all seemed quite casual. We saw two little boys dressed in white sultan costumes with their father who seemed to be teaching them what to do. Our guide said the costumes indicated they were going to be circumcised.
We then walked around the Hippodrome, built originally for chariot races and then used for other sporting and social events. Particularly popular at weekends with families visiting the sites around it, enjoying with gardens and statues and ice cream sellers etc.
Anne needed an extra bag for all the goodies she had bought so as we walked through the backstreets and markets we checked out what was available. She found just what she needed in the Arasta Bazaar. By this time our tour was nearly over - six hours of walking. Bob suggested that we were close enough to walk back to our hotel but our guide insisted we go by bus. We found out later, while on another exploratory walk, that it took us longer to walk back to the bus then it would have to walk straight to our hotel.
Local resident at one of the cushion cover shops in the Arasta Bazaar
Back at the hotel it was time to put our feet up before dinner. Greg and I popped into a nearby grocery shop to pick up some supplies to take on the Gallipoli trip. Anne and I were happy with soup for dinner - enjoying the traditional lentil soup that is served at most places.
2015.05.30 Saturday - Istanbul
I was up early to see the ship arrive in Istanbul. It was exciting to be arriving at our final destination, somewhere quite different to all the other ports - exciting! The city is shrouded in an early morning haze, but the immediate thing that is obvious .... minarets of mosques. Everywhere. We later find out that there are over 3000 mosques in Istanbul (population 20 million - almost the whole of Australia in one city!).
Disembarkation from the ship is straight forward, and the four of us head for the taxi rank, a porter bringing our luggage. There seems to be a mass of disorganised yellow taxis, all parked haphazardly in an unmarked car par (not like the usual line of taxis at a taxi rank). Several drivers (we assume they're drivers) descend on our porter wanting to know where we're going. At first, it seems like disorganised chaos, but really turns out to be organised chaos - they're just trying to help us.
We hoped to get a large cab to take the four of us or two ordinary cabs if a bigger one was not available. We are shown to a cab, the four of us and all our luggage. We'll never fit in! It's one of the smaller model Fiats (as most taxis in Istanbul turn out to be because of the narrow, narrow streets). As our luggage is rammed into the boot, we stand back and watch the comedy of half a dozen drivers all taking turns to attempt to slam the boot lid shut on the bulging luggage, none of which attempt is successful. Then the suggestions start getting thrown about between the drivers, more unsuccessful attempts to close as we are ushered out of sight and into the cab ... S-Q-U-E-E-E-E-Z-E!! With us gone, out come the occy straps and the boot lid is tied down.
After a high speed, fun-park style ride through Istanbul traffic, with the driver continually looking away from the road to turn and talk to Greg sitting beside him, about Istanbul, we arrive at our hotel in the older city part of Istanbul. Looks like excellent accommodation with a fabulous location - and it was (apart from the squeaking polished floor boards, for Anne and Bob in their room underneath ours).
And there was something else we couldn't have escaped no matter where we were - the Muslim call to prayers from the mosque next door (although ANYWHERE in Istanbul has a mosque next door!). I still can't get my head around why this event, several times a day - including extremely very early morning and late at night - needs to blaring out over sub-standard poor sound quality loud speakers attached to at least one minaret of EVERY mosque. But, such is the experience of the rich tapestry of life in Istanbul.
It is still only about 9am and only one of the rooms is ready. After a welcoming cup of tea we move our luggage into Anne and Bob's room. Val had researched that the Mehter, a Turkish military band (the oldest military band in the world) gave public concerts at the Istanbul Military Museum on Saturday afternoons, so we headed out for lunch and a visit there.
The hotel staff were extremely helpful with public transport advice and information. As usual Greg we managed to follow the instructions on the vending machine at the tram stop, and obtained Istanbul travel cards (for bus, train, tram) for us all. A wave of the cards across the entrance turnstiles at the tram stop and we were off across the Galata bridge. At Kabatas we changed from the tram to the subterranean funicular to Taksim Square.
There were lots of people there and hawkers and sellers of all kinds of food and stuff. The memorial in the centre of the square was very interesting but there was no sign to tell us what it was. We guessed a war memorial. Everyone else was posing in front of it so we did too. Later found out it was commemorating the formation of the Turkish Republic.
After lunch at a restaurant called Robert's Cafe, we headed up to the museum. The idea was to walk (which we did) but it turned out to be a very noisy walk.
Turkey has presidential elections next week. Campaigning is in full swing, but not as we know campaigning. It seem a massive part of the process is a display of support for the candidates.
Whilst the streets are festooned with the usual posters, billboards, banners etc for each of the various candidates, as we walked along the street we were caught up in numerous cavalcades of cars all decked out with flags and posters of the various candidates. Horns blaring - I think the rule is that the candidate whose supporters make the most noise, wins. Especially vans equipped with loud speakers blaring out speeches and music (supposedly songs written for/about the candidate).
What is it with Turkey and loud speakers?
Reaching the museum, we have a bit of luck each way - disappointment that the band had gone on an overseas tour and wouldn't be playing that afternoon, but because we were over 60, it was free admittance.
There was a special exhibition of the Gallipoli Campaign - interesting to read the captions which were obviously written from the Turkish point of view. Some of the English translations of the text were a little strange. It was a huge museum with some fabulous displays tracing the history of the Ottoman Empire. Worth a visit but wish we could have heard the band.
By this time, the day had caught up with us. No walking back to Taksim Square, we jumped a bus (same travel card swipe) back to Taksim Square. 4pm on Saturday afternoon and the tram was very crowded. By the time we got to the Spice Bazaar I didn't think any people could get on, but they did! We certainly got up close and personal with some locals on day one.
Back at the Premist Hotel we picked up some traditional complimentary afternoon tea and put our feet up in our rooms for a couple of hours. From time to time we all commented on a rocking feeling, as though we were on the ship.
We decided to dine out at a restaurant strip just around the corner. There probably would have been 40-50 restaurants in the street and a few more up side streets. But what a gauntlet it was to run! Footpath spruikers and urgers are the way of life for each restaurant (except one -more about that later). Probably not what you'd call aggressive, but certainly persistent - if you say you don't want a meal, then "Maybe coffee?", "Maybe a beer?"
Tired and hungry, we had to make a decision so we settled into the Sultan's Pub. Luckily our order came quickly because there was a blackout at about 8pm. We were happy to leave and head back to the hotel and bed.
Disembarkation from the ship is straight forward, and the four of us head for the taxi rank, a porter bringing our luggage. There seems to be a mass of disorganised yellow taxis, all parked haphazardly in an unmarked car par (not like the usual line of taxis at a taxi rank). Several drivers (we assume they're drivers) descend on our porter wanting to know where we're going. At first, it seems like disorganised chaos, but really turns out to be organised chaos - they're just trying to help us.
We hoped to get a large cab to take the four of us or two ordinary cabs if a bigger one was not available. We are shown to a cab, the four of us and all our luggage. We'll never fit in! It's one of the smaller model Fiats (as most taxis in Istanbul turn out to be because of the narrow, narrow streets). As our luggage is rammed into the boot, we stand back and watch the comedy of half a dozen drivers all taking turns to attempt to slam the boot lid shut on the bulging luggage, none of which attempt is successful. Then the suggestions start getting thrown about between the drivers, more unsuccessful attempts to close as we are ushered out of sight and into the cab ... S-Q-U-E-E-E-E-Z-E!! With us gone, out come the occy straps and the boot lid is tied down.
After a high speed, fun-park style ride through Istanbul traffic, with the driver continually looking away from the road to turn and talk to Greg sitting beside him, about Istanbul, we arrive at our hotel in the older city part of Istanbul. Looks like excellent accommodation with a fabulous location - and it was (apart from the squeaking polished floor boards, for Anne and Bob in their room underneath ours).
Premist Hotel Istanbul
Hotel entrance courtyard
And there was something else we couldn't have escaped no matter where we were - the Muslim call to prayers from the mosque next door (although ANYWHERE in Istanbul has a mosque next door!). I still can't get my head around why this event, several times a day - including extremely very early morning and late at night - needs to blaring out over sub-standard poor sound quality loud speakers attached to at least one minaret of EVERY mosque. But, such is the experience of the rich tapestry of life in Istanbul.
It is still only about 9am and only one of the rooms is ready. After a welcoming cup of tea we move our luggage into Anne and Bob's room. Val had researched that the Mehter, a Turkish military band (the oldest military band in the world) gave public concerts at the Istanbul Military Museum on Saturday afternoons, so we headed out for lunch and a visit there.
The hotel staff were extremely helpful with public transport advice and information. As usual Greg we managed to follow the instructions on the vending machine at the tram stop, and obtained Istanbul travel cards (for bus, train, tram) for us all. A wave of the cards across the entrance turnstiles at the tram stop and we were off across the Galata bridge. At Kabatas we changed from the tram to the subterranean funicular to Taksim Square.
There were lots of people there and hawkers and sellers of all kinds of food and stuff. The memorial in the centre of the square was very interesting but there was no sign to tell us what it was. We guessed a war memorial. Everyone else was posing in front of it so we did too. Later found out it was commemorating the formation of the Turkish Republic.
Taksin Square
After lunch at a restaurant called Robert's Cafe, we headed up to the museum. The idea was to walk (which we did) but it turned out to be a very noisy walk.
Turkey has presidential elections next week. Campaigning is in full swing, but not as we know campaigning. It seem a massive part of the process is a display of support for the candidates.
Whilst the streets are festooned with the usual posters, billboards, banners etc for each of the various candidates, as we walked along the street we were caught up in numerous cavalcades of cars all decked out with flags and posters of the various candidates. Horns blaring - I think the rule is that the candidate whose supporters make the most noise, wins. Especially vans equipped with loud speakers blaring out speeches and music (supposedly songs written for/about the candidate).
What is it with Turkey and loud speakers?
Reaching the museum, we have a bit of luck each way - disappointment that the band had gone on an overseas tour and wouldn't be playing that afternoon, but because we were over 60, it was free admittance.
There was a special exhibition of the Gallipoli Campaign - interesting to read the captions which were obviously written from the Turkish point of view. Some of the English translations of the text were a little strange. It was a huge museum with some fabulous displays tracing the history of the Ottoman Empire. Worth a visit but wish we could have heard the band.
By this time, the day had caught up with us. No walking back to Taksim Square, we jumped a bus (same travel card swipe) back to Taksim Square. 4pm on Saturday afternoon and the tram was very crowded. By the time we got to the Spice Bazaar I didn't think any people could get on, but they did! We certainly got up close and personal with some locals on day one.
Back at the Premist Hotel we picked up some traditional complimentary afternoon tea and put our feet up in our rooms for a couple of hours. From time to time we all commented on a rocking feeling, as though we were on the ship.
We decided to dine out at a restaurant strip just around the corner. There probably would have been 40-50 restaurants in the street and a few more up side streets. But what a gauntlet it was to run! Footpath spruikers and urgers are the way of life for each restaurant (except one -more about that later). Probably not what you'd call aggressive, but certainly persistent - if you say you don't want a meal, then "Maybe coffee?", "Maybe a beer?"
Tired and hungry, we had to make a decision so we settled into the Sultan's Pub. Luckily our order came quickly because there was a blackout at about 8pm. We were happy to leave and head back to the hotel and bed.
2015.05.29 Friday - Limnos
Our last day on board, and still more bad news.
The ship anchored just off shore but the captain announced it was too windy and the seas were too rough to use the ship's tenders to ferry passengers to shore. All shore excursions were cancelled and the situation would be re-assessed in a couple of hours. On board it didn't feel too bad, at anchor and compared to last night.
Trapped onboard, the ship's laundry room became a very popular and congested area.
About 10.30 the captain anounced that the weather had moderated sufficiently for passengers to go ashore. Watching the first boat leave, I decided that the comparable calmness of the big ship was best and there was no way I was getting on a tender for the albeit short bouncy journey to shore.
However, Val decided she was going to adventure it and went ashore.
Over to Val ...
After rocking and rolling all night we arrived at Limnos at about 6 am. The water is much calmer but it is very windy, too windy to launch the tenders. Greg was feeling O K and managed to eat some toast and grilled tomato. The captain announces all shore excursions are cancelled. Anne and Bob had booked a really interesting one that included a visit to the archeological Museum, the British Cemetery and W W 1 Memorial, and a winery. What more could you ask for! But it's not going to happen!
Despite the earlier disapointments of the morning, the evening presented some highlights. About 7pm the ship approached the entrance to the Dardanelles. As we approached, it became a little of an emotional experience, being there, at that place, in late May when the Gallipoli campaign would still have been going on 100 years ago.
As the ship entered the straits, most of the Australians on board had gathered either on the upper front deck, or inside the front level 10 Observation Bar. Some of the other passengers (mostly Americans) were a bit bemused at all the excitement so the "event" needed a bit of explanation. It was interesting to learn that a lot of Americans now do their own "pilgrimage" thing, to the D-Day landing beaches of Normandy. There seemed to be some confusion about what we were seeing and where the landing had taken place.
Passing through the opening to the Dardanelles, then up past the narrowest point (Cannakle - Eceabat), darkness meant it was time to adjourn to the dining room to celebrate with our last dinner on board.
After rocking and rolling all night we arrived at Limnos at about 6 am. The water is much calmer but it is very windy, too windy to launch the tenders. Greg was feeling O K and managed to eat some toast and grilled tomato. The captain announces all shore excursions are cancelled. Anne and Bob had booked a really interesting one that included a visit to the archeological Museum, the British Cemetery and W W 1 Memorial, and a winery. What more could you ask for! But it's not going to happen!
After some work on repacking suitcases ready for disembarking the next day, we settled down in The Square (a lounge area on level 7) to read, chat, snack, blog etc. At about 10.30 the captain announced that conditions had improved and the tender was now available for anyone who wanted to go ashore. The others declined but I needed dry land and some exercise.
Limnos was described as an unspoilt island and from my brief visit I think it actually is, or as close as you are going to get in this day and age. I walked along what I think was the main shopping street and while there were a couple of souvenir shops they were mixed in with the baker, butcher and supermarket etc obviously used by the locals. It is too small for most cruise ships to visit and the marina was quite small so tourism would not be as overwhelming as on other islands we have visited.
I enjoyed a walk up to the ruins of a Byzantine Castle on the headland. The views across the island were picturesque. But it was very windy up there so I didn't stay long. I didn't realise it at the time but in the distance I was looking at the Gallipoli Peninsula. Limnos was one of the islands where the Australian troops waited before the launch of the Gallipoli Campaign. And to where some wounded were evacuated.
I could also see what looked like a sheltered bay and beach on the other side of the island but there wasn't time to walk there.
It was an early departure at about 2.30 from Limnos for the sea trip to Istanbul. The four of us had booked in for a Galley Tour at 4.30pm. Greg decided not to go and I only lasted about 15 minutes. It was a confined space and the ship was 'moving around' so I couldn't even manage the champagne and nibbles they were offering.
Back to the ship ...
We had also done a Navigation Bridge Tour two days before which we enjoyed.
As the ship entered the straits, most of the Australians on board had gathered either on the upper front deck, or inside the front level 10 Observation Bar. Some of the other passengers (mostly Americans) were a bit bemused at all the excitement so the "event" needed a bit of explanation. It was interesting to learn that a lot of Americans now do their own "pilgrimage" thing, to the D-Day landing beaches of Normandy. There seemed to be some confusion about what we were seeing and where the landing had taken place.
Passing through the opening to the Dardanelles, then up past the narrowest point (Cannakle - Eceabat), darkness meant it was time to adjourn to the dining room to celebrate with our last dinner on board.
The Turkish memorial Çannakale Şehitleri Aniti (Cannakale Martyrs' Memorial) on the southern tip of the Gallipoli Peninsula at the entrance to the Dardanelle Strait
After our final dinner on board it was time to get those suitcases packed and outside the door into the corridor, ready for collection. For someone who doesn't like shopping I was surprised how many extra bits and pieces I had to squeeze in.2015.05.28 Thursday - Mykonos
After yesterday's astounding day at Ephesus, there was a danger that anything else might be a bit of a disappointment. But we were hoping it would not be so.
We were here at Mykonos 40 years ago, remembering the quaint white-painted houses and blue rooves of the town on small island. Then, we landed at a small wharf off an inter-islands ferry, and were met by a throng of people all whom had something to sell, including overnight accommodation - one of which we accepted.
But, disappointment it was to be. The small harbour was still there, but it was now dwarfed by a second much larger new harbour, with an adjacent marina. And there was still more waterside development going on.
The actual town appeared to be the same, white and nestled on the side of the hills, but the rest of the island had grown. And all around, what we remembered as virtually unspoilt rocky hills, was now dotted with resort style accommodation. As elsewhere, there were lots of cafes and some good shops. I'm over shopping, although I did buy a couple of necklaces.
We walked up to the famous windmills that looked a little neglected. Greg sat in a cafe on the old waterfront that we remembered, while I shopped. Then we had lunch at a taverna. I picked out a sea bass which they then cooked for us. Add a couple of beers and a Greek salad to share and we had a fresh delicious lunch. A bit expensive but really lovely.
Anne and Bob did a walking tour which they really enjoyed. I wish we had done that one! We might have enjoyed Mykonus more.
Back on board the news was not good - high winds and swell for our trip to Limnos. As soon as we left the shelter of Mykonus harbour, the rolling started.
Anne and Bob had met a couple of Americans, Hal and Nancy who were planning a trip to Australia so the 4 of us plus 2 friends of Hal had arranged to have dinner ar the Colonnade. Greg was the first one to drop out. He took some TravelCalm herbal seasickness tablets, had a shower and went to bed. Anne, Bob and I met Hal, Nancy, Lucy and Bob for dinner but before the main course was served Bob retired to take some sea sickness tablets. Sitting at the table we thought the wind had dropped but once we stood up we realised it hadnt as we swayed back to our suites.
There was Greg sitting on the lounge with the waste paper bin in front of him. He had already been sick twice and was feeling awful so I called Guest Services who then transferred us to the ship's Medical Services. After a discussion about his current medication, the nurse decided a seasickness injection was the best option so she came to our suite, checked his blood pressure which she said was high, then gave him the injection. He was asleep in 10-15 minutes and had about 10-11 hours sleep that night.
As a precaution I had already taken a couple TravelCalm so I topped up with 1/4 of an Avomine and slept well.
We were here at Mykonos 40 years ago, remembering the quaint white-painted houses and blue rooves of the town on small island. Then, we landed at a small wharf off an inter-islands ferry, and were met by a throng of people all whom had something to sell, including overnight accommodation - one of which we accepted.
Today's part of the quaint Mykonos as we remember it ... this is where our 1975 accommodation could have been (we remember an entrance to the house where our room was, being up some steps)
The actual town appeared to be the same, white and nestled on the side of the hills, but the rest of the island had grown. And all around, what we remembered as virtually unspoilt rocky hills, was now dotted with resort style accommodation. As elsewhere, there were lots of cafes and some good shops. I'm over shopping, although I did buy a couple of necklaces.
We walked up to the famous windmills that looked a little neglected. Greg sat in a cafe on the old waterfront that we remembered, while I shopped. Then we had lunch at a taverna. I picked out a sea bass which they then cooked for us. Add a couple of beers and a Greek salad to share and we had a fresh delicious lunch. A bit expensive but really lovely.
A visitor to our lunchtime restaurant. Mykonos has a couple of pelicans who freely wander through the narrow streets of the main town
Back on board the news was not good - high winds and swell for our trip to Limnos. As soon as we left the shelter of Mykonus harbour, the rolling started.
Anne and Bob had met a couple of Americans, Hal and Nancy who were planning a trip to Australia so the 4 of us plus 2 friends of Hal had arranged to have dinner ar the Colonnade. Greg was the first one to drop out. He took some TravelCalm herbal seasickness tablets, had a shower and went to bed. Anne, Bob and I met Hal, Nancy, Lucy and Bob for dinner but before the main course was served Bob retired to take some sea sickness tablets. Sitting at the table we thought the wind had dropped but once we stood up we realised it hadnt as we swayed back to our suites.
There was Greg sitting on the lounge with the waste paper bin in front of him. He had already been sick twice and was feeling awful so I called Guest Services who then transferred us to the ship's Medical Services. After a discussion about his current medication, the nurse decided a seasickness injection was the best option so she came to our suite, checked his blood pressure which she said was high, then gave him the injection. He was asleep in 10-15 minutes and had about 10-11 hours sleep that night.
As a precaution I had already taken a couple TravelCalm so I topped up with 1/4 of an Avomine and slept well.
2015.05.27 Wednesday - Kusadasi, Ephesus
Wednesday Ephesus - a day and night to remember!
We headed off from Kusadsai for our tour of Ephesus with coats and umbrellas. It wasn't actually raining as we set out but the clouds were low and threatening. Our guide told us how they had had a wet winter and the unusually wet weather was continuing in spring. It was a 20 minute drive to the site, no rain on the way. We started our tour, along with lots of other people. I think there were more people here than at the Acropolis in Athens. But it is big site 9 square miles so it wasn't a problem.
We heard the rain pelting down during the night and in the morning it was still raining quite heavily when we berthed in Kusadasi. The weather so far had been great and we were disappointed that the forecast was not good as it was, for our special outdoor concert tonight.
Seabourn Odyssey in port
Some nearby neighbours - Norwegian Spirit with Norwegian Jade behind
The site was amazing, more exciting than Olympia and the Athens Acropolis. Archeologists have been working here for 150 years and they estimate they have uncovered 10% of what is there. This site is only 2,000 years old, apparently there are 1,000s of older sites all over Turkey but there aren't the resources to excavate them and they are not as accessible as Ephesus.
The library
There is evidence of sewerage, heating and hot water systems in houses. And the public toilets were very interesting to see. There are piles of columns and pieces of stonework all waiting to be put into place when there is time. It's like hundreds of huge jigsaw puzzles. Even though there are archeologists working here the site needs further preservation with people allowed to wander unsupervised all over the place.
Sewerage and water pipes
Public toilet seats
Excavation of terraced houses, now under cover to protect from the elements
Archeology students from Vienna University are the only ones tasked for the digging and restoration
Looking down from the top of the terraced houses excavation, library (far left behind flowering tree), market area (centre, large open area) and the street for prostitutes area (right, beside walkway - known as Marble Street)
Marble Street
The "jig-saw" pieces, all lined up and numbered, waiting for the missing pieces
A marble wall, succesfully re-assembled and restored
The clouds disappeared and the sun came out just enough to make walking the site very pleasant.
Back in Kusadasi at the end of our tour we were taken on a visit to a carpet shop. These visits are a government requirement to support the local industry. They aim to sell carpets but also educate tourists as they claim inferior carpets are being exported from China and sold as Turkish carpets. The Turkish government pays the cost of delivering any purchases to the home of the purchaser anywhere in the world and any taxes associated with the purchase. I had worked out the size rug I would want if I saw something I liked but despite a search the night before I couldn't find the paper I had written it on. That is until I sat down in the display room and opened my purse containing Turkish lira. And there it was.
We watched a demo of how the rugs are made and what to look for and the owner showed us lots of beautiful rugs both traditional and tribal. We were served fresh pastries, warm apple tea ( quite nice), coffee or Raki (Greg found it too strong). When the presentation was over and the door was opened in came the salesmen. They were actually very nice, enthusiastic but not too pushy - although there were a lot of them. When I indicated I was interested I was whisked away to another room to look at more samples. In the end we bought a tribal rug with blues, oranges and browns for the lounge room. It will go with the lounge but probably not the black and cream feature chair. That may have to be recovered. We were very excited and didn't think to take a photo. It comes with all kinds of info and guarantees including one from Seabourn and Greg had to sign the back of it so when it arrives we can verify that it is the one we selected.
If that wasn't enough excitement for one day, we had to get ready for a special complimentary orchestral concert back on site at Ephesus. Expecting it be cold I rugged up and took an extra jacket just in case but the weather was very mild. We were bused back to the archeological site then had to walk about 300m inside to the Harbour Road at the foot of the amphitheatre, where tables and covered chairs had been set up in front of the amphitheatre. It was just on sunset and as the sun went down it just looked magical. There were drinks and nibbles. A few cats and dogs, obviously music lovers wandered around the tables and the site.
The road they had set up on used to run from the harbour (now well inland) to the town. This was the road that Julius Caesar, Anthony and Cleopatra, St John, St Paul, Hadrian and other other Roman emperors, walked or rode. How humbling is that! We have stood and walked in their footsteps!
Back at the ship there was more fun. Almost the whole crew had assembled along the wharf in two rows to welcome us back with music, dancing and cheering and of course more drinks! It really was a day to remember.
Antonio, with the megaphone, remembered and announced everyone's name as they returned to the ship
Our two cabin attendants, centre right (hugging)
ADDENDUM : And the penny finally dropped .... we didn't even take a proper pic at the time, so this will have to do
The night of the concert, held on Harbour Road which led from the Great Theatre (amphitheatre) to what was then the harbour (now land). In the centre background is the top of a large pointed hill which was on the very edge of the city just inside the wall.
During the course of our daytime tour, our guide mentioned several famous people who had been associated with Ephesus over the ages, including Marc Antony, Cleopatra, Julius Caeser, Hadrian, St John, St Paul ... no penny drop there .... St Paul was imprisoned on that hill i.in the background ... no penny drop yet ... where he wrote his letters .. no penny drop yet. I think anyone can see where this is going now ...
Then, about an hour later, we started to put 2 and 2 together ... St Paul .... wrote letters ... Ephesus ... residents probably known as Ephesians ... St Paul, letters to, Ephesians .... Ding!! The light went on.
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