Thursday 7 May Monterosso and the Cinque Terre track

Despite his anti-walking-down-steps knees and tender hamstring muscle Greg was determined to tackle the track between Monterosso and Vernazza, the most challenging one of all along the Cinque Terre coast. Unfortunately it was the only one of the blue tracks, most popular with tourists, that was open. There are many other tracks to other locations as well as the Cinque Terre coast, but they were even longer and harder.

Research seemed to suggest that going from Monterosso to Vernazza is the best direction to go. It is 4km and the suggested time frame is 1hr 30 min to 1 hr 45mins. Seemed do-able.

We were on our way before 8am on a day that promised to be fine and sunny. We soon realised the guide books weren't exaggerating, it was difficult, with narrow flights of steps disappearing up the hillside into the distance. Just when you thought you were at the top .. wait there's more! We took our time and happily stood aside to let faster walkers through. Amazingly there were orchards and vines growing on terraces along the way. I wouldn't want to be a fruit picker around here!

Looking back over Monterosso from where we'd started

The tracks were clear but not well signposted and several times we doubted we were on the right one. A bit more blue paint to show which track would have been helpful! We had agreed we would turn back if it got too tough but we soon realised that was no longer an option, better to press on than go back, down those steps (pound, pound, pound on the knees).

Eventually we rounded a headland and saw Vernazza sparkling in the sun below us. It is the prettiest of the towns. Three hours after we set off we arrived very relieved but pleased to have made it. But will there be a price to pay (eg sore knees for Greg)  tomorrow? So glad we set off early, those people setting off as we arrived were in for a hot walk.

Vernazza

After a short wander around Vernazza, and drinks, cake and toilet stop at a cafe we headed for Corniglia, a 4 minute train ride away. Our Cinque Terre Park pass included unlimited one-way use of the train. The town of Corniglia is located on top of the hill (information books state 300+ steps from the station to the town) so it is a bus ride from the station, included in the cost of the Park ticket. Smaller and less popular  than the other Cinque Terre towns it was full of character with spectacular views along the coast. It was more pleasant for shopping and less touristy with fewer people. I bought a top at one of the little shops.

Corniglia

Back on the train, this time to Manarolo, another 4 minutes away. By nowthe time we got there it was 1.30 and we were rather hungry. Greg spotted a cafe with Wifi access so we grabbed a table.We shared another anchovy tasting plate (not as good as the one the day before) and a big salad with fresh seared tuna. On the way out I noticed a sign about Rick Steve's book so it was obvious they target and cater for the American clientele.

Manarolo

Getting moving after lunch was hard. After a short walk down the main drag Greg wandered around in the town and I explored a little further to take some photos around the harbour. I  checked with the National Park Office that the section of the track known as Path of Love (so called because it is just another one of those places in Europe where everyone and anyone has decided to place a padlock to show affection for someone. Similar to the bridge in Paris in our blog from 2013) between Manarolo and Riomaggiore was still closed. It is the easiest and most popular path. It was closed but you could walk the first 500m or so.

The closed and padlocked entrance to the Path of Love at Manarolo

Manarolo station

The  last of the towns is Riomaggiore and I can' t tell you much about it but I don't think we missed much at this stage of the day. We got off the train and had to head straight to the harbour to catch a ferry back to Monterosso. We enjoyed the cool breeze of the ferry and seeing the towns from the water. Could see from the boat why the path was closed - a landslide had wiped out a section of the track.

Boarding the boat at Rommagiore - nose in against the rocks and up the gangway onto the front of the boat

On the right, a bridge over a previous landslip, on the left the new landslip that has covered the track

The landslip that had blocked the track

After a bit of shopping in Monterosso, including a return visit to the internet shop, it was back up the 167 steps to the apartment and a hot shower. At 7.30 we walked slowly down the road to the village for dinner at Cantina de Miky, owned by the young woman we rented the apatment from. I agree with her, the local wine is very refreshing. We thought about getting a taxi home but can you believe it, we found the energy to go up those steps again.

When I (Greg) went to pay for dinner with the Mastercard, the cashier rang up the amount and offered the card machine. I noticed the tap-and-pay symbol on the display screen, so just placed the card over the machine window. The cashier I think got a "No" out, went to take the card to show me what to do. But before he could do that, the machine went beep And the transaction went through. He was startled, he'd never seen tap-and-pay work before - even though until a month ago he'd worked in a bank in Milan.