It is at this point that Greg realises we are missing some usb plugs and cables to re-charge some the various devices we have. This means the blog will be delayed! Did he leave them at home or are they at Sydney airport? He has some spares but will need to replace some of the missing ones. And so begins the great Italian usb and cable search First find is at Milan station and then later in an "internet" shop in the old town at Monterosso.
The train trip from Milan to Monterosso is about 3 hours, very smooth, very comfortable and reasonably fast. It appeared to be a popular commuter service, full of business people who all got off an hour out of Milan, in Genoa. Fabulous scenery along the way, almost stereotypical of the geography and architecture you'd associate with Italy. Towards the end of the journey, though, you don't to see much because the line passes through so many tunnels as it hugs the mountainous coastline. It only emerges when it goes through a town or village with a station.
And so it does at Monterosso al Mare. Station was packed with tourists, either off on the next leg of one of the numerous walks, or heading back home.
Monterosso al Mare is at the start/end of the Cinque Terre trail, at the other end is Riommiagiore, and the coastal track passes through Vernazza, Corniglia and Manarola (these are the 5 towns of the Cinque Terre. Each of the towns has a railway station, and 4 of the 5 towns are connected by a ferry service.It's amazing that a line like this was ever built! It's even a little daunting and scary - some very serious walkers here, none of your Wednesday/Saturday social rambles. Almost felt a bit out of our depth.
Fabulous view overlooking the new town from the balcony of the apt.
Our host provided some notes and tips for visitors. These included anchovies, anchovies, anchovies, foccace and local wine. We headed down the 167 step shortcut to the village ready for lunch and to test her suggestions. Winners! Greg's anchovies 3 ways looked and tasted good and my foccace was the best - thinner than we get at home, crispy and rich with oil
Tris di Acciughe
After lunch we went to the National Park office to buy our Cinque Terre card to permit us to walk between towns. Oh no!!! Only one of the "blue tracks" is open. Each of the 5 towns (Monerosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manorolla and Romaggiore) is connected by a coastal walking track. But the hardest one is that between Monterossa and Vernazza ... And that's the only part open. The longest, the roughest, the most steepest parts, the most steps. With Greg's torn hamstring we were hoping to tackle the easier tracks.
We then headed off along the beach front and through the short pedestrian-vehicle shared single one-way at a time road tunnel that joins the new town to the old town. Narrow streets, steep stairs, cafes, tourist shops, old churches and evidence of the high water levels in floods of 2011.
The supermarket in the new town reopened at 4.30 and we were there ready to buy our supplies for a dinner and breakfast in the apartment - fruit, yoghurt, vegetables, proscutto, tomatoes, foccace. Then it was up the 167 steps, early dinner and bed. We left trying the local wine for another day.